Rails 3: Simple AJAXy Page updates?

I can't believe I've been looking four hours for this simple task, but I have.

In Rails 2.3, I could replace one section of a page with this simple code:

render :update do |page| page.replace_html "div_id", :partial => "new_content",... end

In Rails 3, Ryan Bates has me writing entire new javascript functions, switching from Prototype (rails default) to jQuery, and otherwise not enjoying life. The other tutes are no more straightforward.

What am I missing? How do we replace a

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